What story do our clothes tell? What cultural significance do they carry? The exhibition Thread Memory at the V&A Dundee aims to answer these questions by exploring the practice of Tatreez in Palestine. Coming from the Arabic word for Embroidery, Tarteez consists mainly of cross-stitching to create symbolic patterns and images. Since the latter half of the twentieth century, Tatreez has taken on a bigger cultural meaning. It is now being used as a symbol of resistance and cultural endurance. Being hosted in Scotland, the exhibition touches upon the connection between Scotland and Palestine. Not only the political links of twinned cities (Dundee and Nablus), but also the cultural and historical links. The importance of Tartan to Scottish identity and as a reflection of a country’s resistance can be seen reflected in the use of Tartreez today.
Nadia El-Nikla
One dress in the exhibition was lent by Nadia El-Nakla, the wife of former First Minister Humza Yousef. The Thobe (a traditional ankle length dress with sleeves, coming from the Arabic word for garment) is highly embroidered in a coral red, studded with pearl adornments. El-Nakla wore the Thobe as an expression of solidarity and pride for Palestine, showing how clothes can be used to represent a land, a people, and a cause. This has been seen in the wearing of tartan throughout history. From the political portraits of the late eighteenth century to the celebration of Scottish culture seen in weddings today.
Zeid Hijazi
Zeid Hijazi, a designer who aims to bring Tarteez into high fashion, has a piece featured within the exhibition. This dress features Tarteez on tartan in a modernistic silhouette and demonstrates the material connection between cloth and resistance. The creation of this dress reflects a history of clothing being used to demonstrate, in Hijazi’s words, the ‘spirit of rebellion’.
Moving beyond the political, both of these dresses highlight how the blending of cultures is influencing the future of fashion. Cultural textile practices are being employed in innovative ways to express new cultural identities. This gives new life to ancient traditions and ensures that they remain relevant to current trends.
Take Aways
The exhibition Thread Memory leaves the visitor with the knowledge that our clothes play a big role in our cultural expression. They connect us to our land and communities. At SETT, we believe your clothing should truly represent who you are, whether that is by expressing your cultural pride through Highlandwear or designing a bespoke made to measure suit that reflects every aspect of you. So what we want to know is, how would you use your clothes to express yourself?
